Kinishba -- An Ancestral Pueblo Site

About an hour south of Show Low and five miles west of Fort Apache Historic Park in northern Arizona, an unpaved dirt road leads to Kinishba Ruins.  It’s a small site that once was home to Ancestral Pueblo people.

Entrance to Kinishba Ruins

The entrance fee to Fort Apache includes admittance to Kinishba.  At the Nohwiké Bágowa Museum, you can buy a small guidebook about the site.  I highly recommend purchasing it because there is no description at Kinishba of what you’re looking at.  But there are numbered posts that correspond to explanations in the guidebook about the buildings and spaces at the Kinishba; without the guidebook, I wouldn’t have known what I was looking at.

One of the buildings at Kinishba

Occupied from sometime in the 9th century to a time period in the 15th century, the ruins consist of several buildings of dry stone construction.  Some buildings still have walls but others just show foundations that are a few feet high.  There are also a couple of plazas – small, squarish sections of land but it wasn’t obvious what those spaces were until I read about them in the guidebook.
 
At its height in the 14th century, as many as 800 people might have inhabited Kinishba.  The ruins are situated on a windswept plain, high above a river that ran along the edge of the settlement.  Kinishba was an agricultural village and evidence of pottery, jewelry, and artifacts have been found there.

View to the west of the river down below and mountains on the other side

In the 1930s, an archaeologist named Byron Cummings supervised the excavation of Kinishba by his students from the University of Arizona and members of the White Mountain Apache Tribe.  Cummings also constructed some buildings near the ruins; one served as a museum but it closed in 1952.  These buildings are now in a state of disrepair.

Buildings built by UofA Dean Cummings to simulate the actual Kinishba ruins

When I visited last November, for most of the time I was the only person at Kinishba.  Two other people arrived at one point but they didn’t stay long, perhaps because they didn’t have the guidebook to tell them about the place.

View of interior of one of the buildings at Kinishba

I tried to imagine living there a thousand years ago but had a hard time visualizing what it must have been like when Kinishba was a vibrant community filled with people.  However, it is well worth the time to seek it out and I very much enjoyed the hour I spent at Kinishba.

Fort Apache -- The Army Fort

Located on the White Mountain Apache Tribe’s land, Fort Apache was a U.S. Army fort in the 19th century and is now a National Historic Landmark.  I spent a day there last November, learning about Apache history, about the fort and its work, and what happened after the Army left.  The site looks nothing like the fort in the 1948 movie called Fort Apache, which I wrote about in another post.

Banner in the Arrowhead Cafe

 
Fort Apache is about five miles south of Whiteriver, just off Highway 73, in Navajo County, Arizona.  After paying the entrance fee which, at the time of my visit, was $10.00, you’ll get a map of the site which you can use to orient yourself.  However, I recommend buying the Fort Apache Walking Tour Guide because that contains a lot of background information.

Sign at entrance to Fort Apache Historic Park

To the left of the entrance, in the same building, is the Nohwiké Bágowa Museum.  Translated as House of Our Footprints, it provides an excellent introduction to Apache history and culture. You’ll definitely want to spend some time here to get an idea of how the Ndee people, the White Mountain Apache word for themselves, lived before, during, and after the Army occupied the place.
 
A well-stocked gift shop is also in the museum.  I had read online that everything sent from the post office here was stamped with a Fort Apache postmark, which I thought would be fun to have as a souvenir.  Another gift shop, with different items, is located in another building.

U.S. Post Office at Fort Apache

Fort Apache was originally called Camp Ord and was founded in 1870.  General George Crook enlisted the cooperation of local Apaches as scouts who helped the Army in their wars against other Indigenous people.  One of the buildings on the site has an exhibit with detailed information about why the White Mountain Apache people aided Crook in the Apache Wars in the second half of the 19th century.  There were economic, political, and other reasons but the exhibit also makes clear that the presence of the Army also completely changed the Apache people’s traditional way of life.  One very interesting fact is that 12 Apache scouts received the Congressional Medal of Honor in 1872.

View of one area of Fort Apache

In 1922, the Army vacated Fort Apache.  The next year, an Indian boarding school was established on the fort’s grounds.  Named the Theodore Roosevelt School, today it’s a middle school for local children.

Another view of Fort Apache

Although Fort Apache isn’t large and following the walking tour won’t take long, if you stop to read all the information plaques, enter the buildings that are open to the public, eat in the Arrowhead café, browse the gift shops, take photos, and just soak up the atmosphere, you can easily spend several hours there, as I did.  Anyone who is interested in the Old West, Arizona history, Indigenous culture and history, and Army life will enjoy visiting Fort Apache Historic Park.

Fort Apache - 1948 Movie

Opening with shots of a stagecoach traveling through Monument Valley, viewers soon find out that Colonel Owen Thursday, one of the passengers, is on his way to assume command of Fort Apache.  It’s clear that he does not look forward to his new posting but the young woman accompanying him is pleased because she was not able to be with him while he was in Europe and can be now.  At a stage stop, they learn that news of his arrival has not yet reached the fort.  This is the first of many foreshadowing scenes in Fort Apache, an enjoyable if somewhat predictable film.
 
Henry Fonda plays Owen Thursday in this 1948 movie directed by John Ford.  Shirley Temple is his daughter Philadelphia, the young lady traveling with him in the stagecoach.  Glimpses of her persona as a child star percolate through her performance in Fort Apache as a headstrong woman unused to life in the West but for the most part, she is convincing as the daughter of an Army colonel.  John Wayne is a supporting character, Captain York, who repeatedly clashes with Colonel Thursday. York is the commanding officer of Sergeant O’Rourke, played by John Agar, who becomes Philadelphia’s love interest and was her husband in real life.
 
At one point Thursday states, “I’m not a martinet but I do want to take pride in my command.”  Which is emblematic since he says that as he dresses down his senior officers for not wearing their uniforms properly.  There are several conflicts between various groups of men in Fort Apache, especially between Thursday and York, and especially over how to handle the Apaches who have left the reservation they were forced onto.
 
The women at the fort – the wives of the soldiers stationed there and the Spanish-speaking servants – all seem to get along with each other, though.  Sprinkled throughout Fort Apache are several domestic scenes showing what their life was like at a frontier fort; at least, what it was like according to John Ford.
 
The plot of Fort Apache is both a “fish out of water” story and the story of one man’s hubris.  But the quality of acting elevates this 128-minute movie and makes it worth watching.  Colonel Thursday, who thinks he knows more than the seasoned soldiers who have been stationed at the fort far longer than him and who have dealt with the Apaches many times, forces the troops to engage in activities and battles the others know are foolhardy.
 
Just before the end, there’s a scene with journalists that reminded me of another John Ford movie, The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance, even though that film was shot many years later.  It made me wonder if the scene in Fort Apache was the inspiration for the famous quote from that movie.

Fighting Caravans - 1931 Movie

Fighting Caravans was made in 1931 and this black-and-white movie shows its age.  Based on a Zane Grey novel, it stars a young and very thin Gary Cooper.
 
Set during the Civil War, on-screen text at the beginning of Fighting Caravans explains that the term “fighting caravans” refers to wagon trains loaded with freight going to California.  As the movie progresses, the phrase takes on other meanings as well.
 
The plot of Fighting Caravans is basic: A diverse group of people are heading West and during their journey, they experience adventures and setbacks.  Gary Cooper plays Clint, a scout who got in trouble with the law after a night on the town and is facing a 30-day stint in jail.  Lily Damita, better known as the wife of Michael Curtiz and Errol Flynn, plays a Frenchwoman heading to California on her own.  The machinations of Clint’s two grizzled friends throw them together and from then on, the question is will they or won’t they stay together.
 
After a series of typical setbacks, including the lack of Army protection, a suspicious-acting trader, sober wives with drunk husbands, a stagecoach that’s attacked by Kiowa people, the travails of travelling through mountains covered in snow, runaway wagons, and a climactic attack by Kiowa and Comanches, the wagon train finally reaches California.  Throughout these adventures Clint’s friends, the two old-timers who raised him and also are scouts, act as both comic relief and narrators who advance both the plot of Fighting Caravans and the budding romance between Clint and the Frenchwoman.
 
Despite some proto-feminist comments by the Frenchwoman saying she can travel on her own and doesn’t need a man to aid her, it’s very obvious that Fighting Caravans was filmed when women were not treated equally and Indians (as they were called in the movie) were always the enemy.  The women on the wagon train had more sense than most of the men but their ideas were played for laughs.  The Native Americans never became full-fledged individual characters and were mostly seen as an unnamed horde.
 
The audio quality was poor and the continuous background music made it even more difficult to understand the dialog.  (If the Frenchwoman was ever named, I didn’t catch it.)  Fortunately, the movie was only 81 minutes long.  At least, that’s what the Netflix DVD says; other sources give the running time as 92 minutes.  Whatever the duration actually is, Fighting Caravans is a movie worth seeing only if you are a die-hard Gary Cooper fan.

Young Guns - 1988 Movie

 

Young Guns is yet another Western which opens with a scene showing an ordinary main street in a nameless town that is suddenly interrupted by a violent action.  In the case of this 1988 movie, two men talking on the sidewalk hear a gunshot and see a youth running down the street.  Cut to the men rescuing the youth and taking him back to a ranch in their wagon.
 
So begins Young Guns, which tells the story of the Lincoln County War in New Mexico, although it was filmed at Old Tucson in Arizona.  Starring Emilio Estevez as Billy the Kid – although viewers don’t know that’s who the character is until about 30 minutes into the movie -- and several other well-known young actors of the 1980s and 1990s including his brother Charlie Sheen, Keifer Sutherland, and Lou Diamond Philips as Regulators, the film does a good job of showing the conflict from their viewpoint.
 
Early scenes in Young Guns reveal the friendly rivalry among the Regulators, the young men employed by John Tunstall (played by Terence Stamp) to work his ranch and protect it from outsiders, as well as how Billy does and does not try to fit in to the group.  One scene in particular makes clear one way he is different from some of the others: After dinner one evening, the boys take turns reading from a newspaper as Tunstall contentedly sits in a rocking chair.  He calls on Billy to read but Billy declines.  After being told he can either read now or leave the ranch in the morning, Billy acquiesces and reads far more fluently than the previous youth.  Tunstall is clearly pleased.
 
My impression was that Tunstall was trying to “civilize” his young workers.  He refers to them as the “jetsam and flotsam of society” and dispenses nuggets of wisdom as they do their chores around the ranch.  It’s a relatively peaceful, tranquil existence. 
 
But it doesn’t last.  In an altercation with a business rival, Tunstall is killed and the remainder of Young Guns is about how Billy and the Regulators attempt, first by legal means, to bring the murderers to justice.  However, things don’t go according to plan and they find themselves on the wrong side of the law.  Instead of chasing the bad guys, they are now the outlaws.
 
Billy’s true character is exposed as he repeatedly shoots people whom he believes are in his way of obtaining justice for Tunstall.  The other Regulators he rides with are at first angry with Billy, then scared about what his actions mean for them, and finally resigned that they are stuck with being labeled as his accomplices.  Billy seems to revel in the violence, unlike his companions, but they are unable to stop him.  As Young Guns progresses, their situation becomes more and more dire.
 
A side plot involves Doc Scurlock (played by Kiefer Sutherland), one of the Regulators, trying to rescue a Chinese woman who appears to be the property of a wealthy man who was an enemy of John Tunstall.  To the best of my knowledge, it’s not historically accurate but regardless of whether the purpose was to provide some romance or show the plight of Asian women in the Old West, it doesn’t detract too much from the main plot of Young Guns.
 
The climax of Young Guns involves the inevitable showdown between the Regulators and the men who opposed them and were behind the murder of John Tunstall.  It’s suitably action-filled and tense.  I won’t give anything away but will say that I disliked how the director (Christopher Cain) chose to film part of the ending.
 
Other stalwarts of Western movies who appear in Young Guns include Brian Keith and Jack Palance in supporting roles.  At 102 minutes, the movie never drags and even if it isn’t quite true to what really happened in the Lincoln County War, Young Guns is enjoyable viewing.